The more distant a place is, the more singular the idea of it is. Japan manages to be both geographically distant from the west – and still a fair trek from most places in Asia and Oceania – and culturally distant with only a select forms of art and media exported and translated into other languages. This means that to many, Japan is only Tokyo, creating a somewhat absurd situation where large towns and cities become quaint getaways ready for a romantic discovery, and Shimonoseki on the southwestern tip of the country's main island is one of them.

Upon approach from the sea, the first sight of Shimonoseki is one of a city built into the coastline rather than overpowering it, meaning the vast suburbs stretch along the waterfront in a series of rows that match the hilly terrain. Thought was definitely put into making sure the natural beauty of the area was maintained as the population grew and it looked like something from a Miyazaki movie.

Once inside the city, the illusion is broken. The docks are shabby and mostly empty and the streets are marked with closed shops and dilapidated buildings. The image of Japan qua Tokyo is one of a country that's always a few years in the future; Shimonoseki is very much a city that's a decade or two in the past.

This isn't to say Shimonoseki is a bad place. The Japanese aesthetic does a lot to alleviate the effects of the struggling local economy. Everything is neat and tidy – even the closed shops appear to have someone cleaning them to make sure streets don't become derelict – and the public transport infrastructure is quick, easy and efficient, perfect for getting to the real reason to make a visit.

The bay of Shimonoseki is triangular in shape and along the edge is a lovely little resort town. Tourism has obviously replaced import-export as the focus of the city and yet it hasn't been totally overrun by big businesses. One of the main areas is a compact row of shops, bars, restaurants and coffee places. Unlike bustling malls where one business runs into the other, each business feels completely discrete; one particular second floor restaurant specializing in seafood (incredibly fresh, likely locally caught) and styled to look like a traditional eatery is directly above a contemporary gift shop, next to a steak restaurant and across from a bar but is still a cozy getaway.

Likewise, in the area is the former British Consulate. Now a British themed tea house, hilariously named "Liz" after Queen Elizabeth herself. It's both a slice of history and a fascinating look at cultural relations between Japan and England, then and now. The Peter Rabbit-inspired artwork outside is so cute that it's worth a visit just to see that.

Unfortunately, Shimonoseki is a victim to its weather patterns and, with heavy rain and strong winds in the area, the ferry across the bay was cancelled, limiting how much of the place I was able to see. It didn't, however, limit my enjoyment nor my fondness for the place. Even in the pouring rain, it has the kind of relaxing vibe that can only be appreciated fully on a city break, and I would return for one in a heartbeat given the opportunity.