Strolling down Petaling Street, the main street of Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown in Malaysia, is a somber experience these days. Minus the foreign tourists, the street is nearly deserted, scattered stalls selling the predictable array of generic and often knock-off clothes and watches and other items most definitely not "Made in Malaysia."

In normal times, Petaling Street is home to a bustling night market very much aimed at tourists. It held little allure for locals and many complained it had little Chinese character anymore.

But a back alley barely a hundred meters away has helped breathe life back into Chinatown, attracting throngs of local visitors of all races, and sparking a renaissance for surrounding businesses.

Kwai Chai Hong, as it's known, is the brainchild of a group of five friends. When they began their revitalization project in 2018, the alleyway was a grim and grimy place, known for its vice, not its Instagram opportunities.

"Before we took over this place in 2018, this place most people will call it dilapidated," said the co-founder of Project Kwai Chai Hong, Zeen Chang. "More so this place is not a place where people want to hang out."

It reflected the broader decline of Chinatown.

Chinatown "lost its luster. It's lost somewhat its glory and what we hope to do, at least a few friends of ours, we hope to bring more people back here, especially the younger generation who didn't give this space a chance," Chang said.

After scanning a QR code for pandemic control purposes, people pass beneath the entrance, cross a small wooden footbridge and discover an alleyway filled with murals depicting Chinatown that older people might remember from their childhood.

Characterful cafes and bars in restored shophouses back onto the alleyway. The area is buzzing even in the midst of the pandemic, a far cry from how it was just over two years ago.

"This area used to be filled with drug addicts," said visitor Jaysom Ng. "I wouldn't dare to come here. After it's been turned into this Chinese cultural street, only now am I really drawn to visit this place."

"Around this area, there are a lot of nice cafes now," said Poh Ye Pin. "I was attracted by the murals, that's why I came in here. I found out this is the alley people are always showing on social media."

The murals depict scenes of daily life as it once was in Chinatown: a woman hanging out washing, a musician, a scribe, a sex worker. Each has a discreet plaque with a QR code. Scanning the code brings up a short video featuring sound linked to the scene, transporting people back to the Chinatown of decades past.

Multi-colored buntings adorned with Chinese motifs hang from above the alleyway. It's part of a delayed Lunar New Year installation.

"Every six months or so we have an installation," said co-founder Chang. "What we try to do is to make sure that there is constant activity that will draw people back. It has to be about sharing the culture of the Chinese people. When there is footfall, traffic, naturally, the business will boom."

And there is plenty of footfall even on weekdays, people jostling to take selfies or photos for their Instagram. It's a far cry from the subdued, even dour atmosphere of the main Chinatown market street.

But on another nearby street, a couple of cafes and a boutique hotel have opened in tastefully restored pre-war shophouses. More signs that after so many years, even decades of decline and decay, Chinatown is starting to get its luster back in no small part due to the Kwai Chai Hong alley restoration.

"What is important for us is to work with the community and grow with the community," said Chang. "If everyone has that in mind, you will see magical things happen."