Why has horse-face skirt gone viral and where does its beauty come from?

The horse-face skirt, or mamianqun in Chinese, has become one of the most popular garments on social media and China's domestic e-commerce platforms. How has this skirt, with an over thousand year history, transcended time and space to become a fashion item for today's generation?

The Ancient Chinese Costumes Restoration Team is behind some of the most popular horse-face skirts on social media. They designed a horse-face skirt for Chinese actress Yang Mi for the 2024 Henan TV Spring Festival Gala. It immediately became a trending outfit on social media. Many people searched the same skirt worn by the celebrity on e-commerce platforms.

What is the horse-face skirt?

"What is mamianqun? It was a very popular skirt style during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. The skirt has two panels attached to a single waistband. They intersect in front of the body to form a 'skirt door.' This 'skirt door' closely resembles the horse-face fortifications on ancient city walls, hence the name 'horse-face skirt.' It also has numerous pleats on either side, creating uniquely beautiful and graceful waves when walking," said Chi Wenhui, a literature group member of the Ancient Chinese Costumes Restoration Team.

"In the early Ming Dynasty, the silhouette of the horse-face skirt was quite voluminous, and its style was rather plain and simple. By the mid-Ming Dynasty, the skirt featured two decorative patterns on the fabric, known as "lan." Towards the late Ming period, the style became more elaborate, and the colors used were more vibrant. By the Qing Dynasty, embroidery had been extensively added to the pleats," said He Gaoshun, a design group member of the team.

How convenient is it to wear a horse-face skirt?

"This skirt is the one we designed specifically for the Henan TV Spring Festival Gala. As you know, it attracted widespread attention on social media. When selecting the patterns for the skirt, we opted for lighter motifs. The main themes depicted on the bottom layer of the skirt are fairies and the Jade Rabbit, embellished with osmanthus flowers and other floral patterns. This choice of imagery not only enhances the skirt's elegance and lightness but also imbues it with cultural significance and a touch of mythical charm," added He Gaoshun. 

Where does the beauty of the horse-face skirt come from?

"The aesthetic appeal of the skirt primarily embodies a Chinese philosophical concept that harmonizes strength and gentleness. The skirt door features very bold and distinct lines, representing a form of dignified beauty. Meanwhile, the pleats on the sides are exceptionally fluid, creating a ripple effect when the wearer moves," explained Chi Wenhui. 

Why could the horse-face skirt fit well into modern society?

"Its aesthetics aligns closely with contemporary life. It is convenient to wear and walk around," said He Gaoshun.

"The horse-face skirt, in particular, carries cultural significance. It communicates a wearer's appreciation for traditional culture and her desire to express this cultural philosophy through her attire," said Hu Xiao, an art group member of the team.

"Traditional Chinese clothing is a treasure trove of art. This kind of native aesthetic actually possesses a very high artistic style, which can provide a great deal of inspiration for many artists and designers, including those in modern fashion design," added Chi Wenhui.