Sweet or salty? How natural factors shape zongzi across China

The Dragon Boat Festival, or Duanwu Festival, is one of the most important traditional Chinese festivals - a time when people pay homage to their ancestors, pray for good luck and ward off evil spirits. It is celebrated on the fifth day of the fifth month on the Chinese lunar calendar, which fell on June 10 this year.

There are many legends about the origins of Duanwu. Some say the tradition dates back to the Spring and Autumn period (770 BC-476 BC) when the ethnic Baiyue people of southern China would observe it as a festival of totem worship. However, the most widespread belief is that the festival commemorates the ancient poet Qu Yuan (340 BC-278 BC), who decided to jump into the river and ended his life out of love for his beloved but failing motherland in the state of Chu. 

The festivities for Duanwu vary from region to region in China, but they also share commonalities. One of them is to eat zongzi, a traditional delicacy made of sticky rice with assorted fillings and wrapped in bamboo leaves. 

Despite sharing the same name, zongzi come in various flavors. People in northern China prefer sweet zongzi while those in the south like savory ones with meat, egg yolk and other fillings. Climate, geography and local flavors all play a significant in role in shaping these preferences. 

In northern Chinese regions, such as Heilongjiang, Hebei, Shanxi and Qinghai provinces, jujube-stuffed zongzi are more common as the dry climate of these regions with ample sunshine makes these places an ideal place for growing jujubes. People's preference for these sweet zongzi is a clear reflection of this regional characteristic.

Meanwhile, in southern China, such as Sichuan and Hunan provinces, people usually like to eat zongzi stuffed with cured meat with Sichuan pepper seasoning. The reason behind this preference is a humid climate with lots of rainfall. Curing meat for preservation is a common practice in these regions where the average relative humidity goes above 70 percent throughout the year. Naturally, the same meat finds its way inside zongzi.

Besides the sweet and savory divide, there are some other norms that affect zongzi flavors. In the coastal areas, such as Guangdong and Fujian provinces, people like to add dried shrimps and oysters. In Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region bordering Vietnam, the low latitude leads to a climate of high temperature and humidity, creating great conditions to grow taros. People also add them into their zongzi to give it a local flavor.

China's vast expanse and rich history, combined with the creativity and vitality of the locals, have fostered an incredible diversity in the customs of traditional festivals. The variations in zongzi contribute to the vibrant and enduring culture of the Duanwu Festival.