In recent years, Yunjin brocade, a UNESCO-recognized intangible cultural heritage, has become a prominent feature on the international fashion stage.
Since 2015, Yunjin brocade has graced Paris Fashion Week and other prestigious high-end custom fashion platforms multiple times, earning global acclaim. Most recently, at the 2024 China International Import Expo (CIIE), Yunjin brocade's masterpiece, "Golden Python of Prosperity," was acquired by France's first lady, Brigitte Macron, marking a significant milestone in the globalization of Chinese culture.
This ancient craft is embracing innovation, seamlessly blending history with modernity and finding new resonance with younger audiences worldwide.
Peony patterns on the fabric of Yunjin brocade. /CFP
As one of China's three great brocades – alongside Shu brocade and Song brocade – Yunjin brocade's origins date back to the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317–420 AD). Traditionally reserved for royalty, Yunjin brocade earned its moniker "gold in every inch" due to its intricate craftsmanship, luxurious patterns and profound cultural symbolism.
Even today, the weaving process remains highly intricate, adhering to traditional handwoven techniques that involve multiple meticulous steps, including pattern design, loom preparation and weaving. These elaborate patterns often feature dragons, phoenixes and floral motifs, all rich in auspicious meaning. It can take months or even years to complete a single piece of Yunjin brocade, underscoring its extraordinary value.
The weaving loom used to create Yunjin brocade at Nanjing Yunjin Institute, Nanjing City, east China's Jiangsu Province, July 29, 2014. /CFP
As China's cultural influence continues to expand globally, Yunjin brocade has captured the attention of the international fashion world. Designers have ingeniously integrated its traditional motifs and textures with modern aesthetics, creating pieces that harmonize Eastern heritage with global appeal. Yunjin brocade's debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2015 stunned audiences with its unparalleled textures and vivid colors, earning it the title "Eastern Treasure." Its continued presence on international runways showcases its enduring charm and adaptability.
This revival has been bolstered by China's commitment to preserving and promoting intangible cultural heritage. Through supportive policies and global outreach, Yunjin brocade has gained recognition as not only a national treasure of China but also a cultural asset for humanity. In 2009, UNESCO inscribed Yunjin brocade on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, affirming its universal significance.
Cloud patterns on Yunjin brocade. /CFP
Beyond the fashion industry, innovative ways have been found to connect Yunjin brocade with younger generations. In 2021, it was included in the 3D dress-up game "Shining Nikki," introducing players to the unique allure of this traditional craft. Under the guidance of experts from the Nanjing Yunjin Institute, the game featured a Ming Dynasty-inspired ceremonial robe woven in exquisite detail. This novel approach allowed players to experience the elegance of Yunjin brocade virtually, sparking interest in traditional culture. By leveraging a globally accessible platform like gaming, Yunjin brocade has achieved a dynamic fusion of heritage and modernity, ensuring its continued relevance and appeal.
The Yunjin brocade ceremonial robe in the game Shining Nikki. /Courtesy of Shining Nikki website
From royal exclusivity to digital innovation, Yunjin brocade's journey exemplifies the transformative power of cultural preservation and reinvention. By embracing both tradition and innovation, this ancient craft is poised to captivate audiences for generations to come.
(Cover via CFP)