Kuala Lumpur, a fusion of cultures and cuisines

It was Malaysia Day weekend, and I had just sat down to a steaming selection of curries and sides set out on a banana leaf. I had flown to Kuala Lumpur from Beijing during the Mid-Autumn Festival break in China, which I was soon to learn is also a cherished holiday in the Southeast Asian country I had just landed in.  

To call Kuala Lumpur (KL) a "melting pot" is an understatement. Malay, Chinese and Indian and other cultures blend in this city, fusing unique dishes, language and parlance. Ordering coffee here in cafes, known as kopitiams, often has its own set of phrases that determine how much milk and sugar you want. 

Malaysia Day on September 16 celebrates the establishment of the Malaysian Federation with the unification of Malaya, North Borneo (now Sabah), Sarawak, and Singapore in 1963. Singapore would later leave this federation in 1965. My only friend in Malaysia, who is a media worker at a news agency there, was out of KL for the first part of my trip. He was in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the state of Sabah on Borneo in east Malaysia, to cover the Malaysia Day celebrations. The holiday has major significance for the Borneo states and so big celebrations are held there every year, he explained. After telling me about the "magnificent scenery" and seafood in Borneo, we agreed to meet later during my stay in KL. I ventured out on my own, making a mental note to add Sabah and Sarawak to my travel bucket list.

On Malaysia Day itself, I headed to KLCC (Kuala Lumpur City Centre) Park, hoping to see how the locals celebrate one of their national days – and to get a decent selfie with the Petronas Twin Towers. As I made my way to the park, flags hung from just about every spare corner and street stall, the hallmarks of the patriotic and festive atmosphere. It was the right time to stop and tuck into the national dish – nasi lemak. Thanks to the recommendations of Malaysian colleagues in Beijing, I had a list of places to try this dish, and I settled on a cafe called Bungkus Kaw Kaw in the Suria KLCC mall below the Petronas Twin Towers. Fortunately, I did not have to use fancy Malaysian kopi (coffee) ordering phrases at the store as I paired my meal with Milo, a malt drink that is popular in the country. Most people in the crowded store were having their drinks served cold with ice. I tucked into the rice dish: rice cooked in coconut milk, with sides of peanuts, an egg and anchovies. I paired my lemak with a rendang, which turned out to be a saucy curry. This hearty meal left me needing a walk afterwards, so I stepped outside for a stretch in KLCC Park, a 50-acre (20 hectare) outdoor recreational space sprawling below the iconic towers. Being a holiday, residents filled the park as they relaxed and enjoyed their day off. After people-watching and strolling for a bit, I remembered it was the eve of Mid-Autumn Festival, a Chinese cultural festival often centered around an appreciation for the full moon. I had heard about a spot called Kwai Chai Hong, a renovated block with a Chinese theme, so I went there in the hope of feeling the cheer of the festival. 

Kwai Chai Hong houses a few cafes, bars and art spaces. Its intention is to pay homage to the era of KL's 1960s Chinatown. Chinese opera filtered out of the corners of the alley, while visitors milled around, enjoying lantern decorations, art and taking pictures with the scenery. I saw one man in the area look up and admire the full moon that had appeared. I also managed to convince a family to take a picture of me while I sat in a barber-themed chair and looked up. 

Needing a bit more moon-gazing, I ended the evening at a rooftop spot called The Attic Bar. Conscious of the health risks of excessive alcohol consumption, I climbed a twirling staircase for the bar's panoramic views of KL's skyline and tuak, a traditional rice wine that originated in Malaysia's Sarawak state. Despite the dizzying height of the stairs, the experience added a sweet touch to the end of my evening.

Towards the end of my trip, my friend finally appeared after his work trip to Sabah. He is of Malay heritage and is a KL local. We met in a street food market and walked around the city center while he pointed out good spots to visit. When he offered to take pictures of me, I replied, "Makan first, pictures later," and he laughed. "Makan" is a Malay phrase similar to "chi fan" in Chinese, and to me feels like "let's eat." 

I had seen mee rebus in Southeast Asian TV shows, so my friend drove to me a spot that specialized in this dish, and we ordered it along with satay meat skewers. The name "mee" reminded me of the noodle dishes I eat in China with the name "mian."

A rich dish of yellow noodles, eggs and chilies in thick gravy was served and I paired it with Milo, of course. The thick texture comes from the sweet potatoes used in the gravy. 

The next day, it was time to say goodbye to Malaysia, KL and my friend. He offered to take me to the airport and suggested we squeeze in a visit to the Batu Caves before I left. This is a famous Hindu temple set in a limestone cave, a testament of the influence of Indian cultures on KL's ever-changing landscape. It features a giant statue of Lord Murugan and a steep, colorful staircase. 

I left for Beijing knowing that Malaysia was good to me, even down to the friendliness of a stranger offering me their seat on a train. The weather and people are warm. The cuisine is one-of-a-kind and the blend of cultures is fascinating. There's more to explore, so I will return.  

Cover photo: The Petronas Twin Towers are seen from KLCC Park in Kuala Lumpur on September 16, 2024.