Before moving to China, I may have glimpsed Chinese opera only through fleeting scenes in martial arts films or cultural showcases. It was only after I lived here that I realized that beneath the dazzling surface of painted faces and embroidered robes lies a centuries-old tradition, where every color, line, and stitch tells a story of identity, morality and artistry.

Whether Peking Opera, Sichuan Opera, Cantonese Opera, Wu Opera or Shangdang Bangzi (folk opera), this symbolism is a thread woven across all variations of Chinese opera.

I recently found myself immersed in the world of Chinese opera while covering a story on the children's opera "Chu Feng Xin Sheng" in Taiyuan, north China's Shanxi Province. There, I had the opportunity to dress up in traditional opera makeup and costume – an experience that gave me newfound respect and fondness for the craft.

During my two-hour stint in the makeup chair, I admired the precision that went into every step of the process, fascinated by the detail and design in every brush stroke and, quite frankly, the patience and endurance required to wear the intricate outfit and weighty headgear.

Chinese opera's visual language began over a thousand years ago, rooted in ancient religious rituals and totemic worship. Early performers wore masks for spiritual ceremonies, gradually evolving into painted faces, known as lianpu.

By the end of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), stage lighting was used, and actors and actresses had to apply heavy makeup using greasepaint rather than fine powder.

The meticulous and accurate portrayal of characters through masks and makeup quickly became a hallmark of Chinese opera culture, with bold and exaggerated patterns and colors emerging as key characteristics of this art.

Characters

Traditionally, Chinese opera has a system of characters. Specifically in Peking opera, or jingju, there are four main character tropes, each identified in specific roles.

Sheng (male roles) include laosheng, older, bearded males – usually the protagonists in the story; xiaosheng, young males; and wusheng, male warriors or acrobats.

Dan (female roles) encompass qingyi, virtuous and elite women; huadan, vivacious young females; wudan, females versed in combat, the equivalent of an opera warrior princess; and laodan, elderly women often considered the matriarch figure.

Jing (painted-face male roles) specialize in portraying powerful or supernatural beings characterized by elaborate facial makeup, padded shoulders, platform boots and a whole lot of personality.

Chou (comic or clown-like characters) are often portrayed with a white patch on their nose, providing comic relief and social commentary through witty dialogue and physical humor.

Colors

Color plays a significant role in Chinese opera, serving as a key element in shaping various characters. Facial makeup in opera is considered an art form, with a rich array of colors, varied designs and cultural significance.

Applying opera makeup is a ritual, requiring hours of skilled brushwork.

The patterns and exaggerated features used in mask and makeup design are not just for performance value – they convey a message on stage, portraying emotion, status and even the fate of the character.

Red signifies loyalty and bravery and usually implies a heroic protagonist, although it can also apply to other characters.

Black denotes integrity and strength. In Chinese opera, black usually implies a decisive or impartial nature.

White signals cunning behavior or treachery. A character with a white mask is typically regarded as a villain, often on a quest to harm the story's protagonist.

Green suggests fierceness or impulsiveness. A green-masked character's actions are often associated with those of a trickster.

Gold or silver are reserved for gods, spirits or divine beings. These colors allow audiences to instantly recognize a character's moral alignment – even from the back row.

Purple represents upright, composed characters.

Blue often suggests someone with psychic or prophetic abilities, or someone with courage. A blue mask indicates someone to trust.

Pink symbolizes elegance and dignified behavior.

A character with a yellow mask is typically devious, calculating and cunning. Characters with yellow masks are usually quite ambitious as well.

Beyond color, the patterns drawn on masks or faces also bear significance. Patterns are often used to depict detailed facial features, denoting positive and negative traits and emotions.

Costumes

Opera costumes, known as xifu or xingtou, are as symbolic as the masks. Drawing inspiration from the formal dress of the Ming and Qing dynasties, these garments use color, embroidery and silhouette to indicate social status, gender, age and personality, with elaborate headdresses and flowing sleeves adding to the visual drama.

Accessories like peacock feather plumes or thick-soled shoes further distinguish roles and enhance storytelling. Dramatic costume design elements, such as water sleeves known as shuixiu or high-slitted robes known as jianyi, allow for expressive movement and emotional expression on stage.

Color again plays a crucial role in Chinese opera costume design, with different colors representing different characters. Pinks, for example, are generally worn by younger characters, black by upright men, and red by emperors or those of high rank.

Cultural influence

In recent years, modern technology and global influences have inspired new interpretations. Brands like the Chinese tea franchise Chagee even incorporate elements of the art in their logo – an image of a female opera performer.

Today, Chinese opera masks, makeup and costumes are celebrated not only on stage but also in museums, art, film and even social media apps that let users "try on" a painted face. They remain a vibrant testament to China's cultural heritage, teaching ethics, history and beauty through every performance – a true example of life imitating art.