Ripples of history: Walking the Summer Palace in the morning light

The Summer Palace in Beijing stands not only as China's largest surviving imperial garden, but as a layered living landscape with its picturesque lake, hills and pavilions. Walking its paths today feels like drifting between layers of time. The moment Kunming Lake comes into view, morning light casting silver ripples across its surface, you get an idea why emperors and empresses once came here to take a breath.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site has roots reaching back to imperial gardens around Beijing's western hills, but the version we know today was largely established during the reign of the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912). Starting in 1750, the palace was expanded and transformed into the "Garden of Clear Ripples," completed in 1764. 

At the heart of the design are two anchors: Kunming Lake and Longevity Hill. Despite being largely man-made, the lake looks as though it has always existed, mirroring mountains, sky and passing dynasties with the same calm indifference.

As you walk in, the place starts revealing itself through sensation. You notice it first in sound – the rhythmic splash of oars against Kunming Lake and the faint rustle of willow branches leaning toward the water.

Then come the light – rays of the sun slip between the eaves of the pavilions, catching on glazed tiles and briefly turning them gold. Colors feel different here. The reds and greens of the pavilions are sun-worn, but they gracefully carry centuries of weather and worship. Even the air seems to emanate the warmth of cobblestones in places permeated by the cool drift coming off the water.

Along the Long Corridor – a 728-meter covered gallery where Qing artisans painted stories across hundreds of beams – brushstrokes from a bygone era stretch above your head. As light from the sun moves, the paintings seem to shift, becoming almost liquid. You may even pause to make sure it's just the light playing tricks on your eyes. 

Then the Marble Boat comes into view. Built in 1755, it's a lakeside pavilion carved from stone. Though its original cabin was destroyed in 1860, it was rebuilt during the late Qing. Today, it sits still at the water's edge, a symbol of stability in an ever-shifting world.

Over time, the Summer Palace endured destruction – notably during the 1860 Anglo-French invasion. It was later rebuilt under Empress Dowager Cixi and has since undergone gradual restoration.

Today, it stands as a testament to China's enduring history and ability to weather upheaval with grace through the quiet strength of a place shaped by time rather than shaken by it.

*Editor's note: Zaruhi Poghosyan is a multimedia editor for CGTN Digital. This article is part of China, Soft Focus – a slow journalism series that offers human-centered glimpses into culture, history and everyday life across China through measured pace and intimate storytelling.