Design in China: The cultural renaissance of fashion

Out with the old, in with the new – or newish. Fashion's cyclical nature is bringing back traditional styles with a modern twist, blending culture and design to create fashion masterpieces with a touch of nostalgia.

China is no stranger to this trend.

Neo-Chinese, or xin zhongshi, has become a buzzword in the fashion world, with more young people embracing and reviving traditional Chinese attire.

At Shanghai Fashion Week this year, sports apparel giant Adidas launched their Chinese New Year 2026 collection.

The "Power of Three" collection fuses Eastern aesthetic and classical Chinese craftsmanship with contemporary streetwear. Design elements include traditional inspired jade-style buttons, cloud-pattern quilting and palace-skirt inspired hems.

A few months ago, in May this year, Beijing Fashion Week hosted a qipao show, showcasing the evolution of the popular Chinese garment on the runway and showcased its endless possibilities in a modern world.

However, the story of Chinese fashion began thousands of years ago, with archaeological finds dating back to the Neolithic period when bone needles were used to sew animal hides together and stone beads and woven linen were common materials used to make clothing. As dynasties rose and fell, each left a fashionable mark.

Shang Dynasty (1600 BC–1046 BC)

Early Chinese clothing was created more for function than style but still carried symbolism. The Shang Dynasty favored simple tunics and skirts, crafted from hemp or silk for the elite. The basic format of Chinese clothing consisted of yi (upper) and shang (lower) garments later popularized during the Zhou Dynasty. Clothing during the Shang Dynasty also came with hierarchy. The more intricate fabrics, sleeve detail, dyes, embroidery and decorations were only available to the slave owner class. Ordinary people would wear rough fabric and garments that resembled men's clothing. The only difference was the apron, known as zhan, worn beneath the waist for women.

Zhou Dynasty (1046 BC–256 BC)

The Zhou Dynasty introduced more structured clothing, including belts and hats. Clothing became a marker of social status, with strict rules dictating who could wear what with regards to colors and motifs. During that time, the colors of clothing were limited to the five primary colors – blue, red, yellow, white and black. Hemp, silk and animal hides were common materials for making clothing, with silk reserved for the higher class. The Zhou Dynasty also introduced different styles of clothing, including a ceremonial dress worn by men known as Mianfu. Later, a robe known as shenyi was introduced.

Qin (221 BC-206 BC) and Han (206 -202 BC) dynasties

Although brief, the Qin Dynasty favored dark colors and robes that signified rank. Black was considered noble and yellow started gaining regal significance. The Han Dynasty saw the flourishing of Hanfu, with wide sleeves, crossed collars and flowing robes. Men and women wore similar styles, with changes in color, fabric and ornaments. Black and red were popular colors at the time. The Han Dynasty clothing developed rapidly in this period and had a great influence on the history of Chinese dress. Silk production boomed and embroidery was considered art.

Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties (220–589 CE)

Full-body robes gave way to the classic split silhouette of a top and a skirt for women during this time, while loose robes with wide sleeves were popular among men. Women's dresses featured tighter upper garments and flowing lower skirts.

Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE)

The Tang Dynasty is hailed as the golden age of Chinese fashion. Open to foreign influences, particularly because of international trade with neighboring countries via the Silk Road, Tang clothing was vibrant and diverse. Women's fashion became particularly expressive, with high-waisted skirts, short blouses and silk shawls. Bright colors and bold patterns were common, and yellow was reserved for emperors. Accessories like hairpins, belt charms and forehead ornaments also gained traction during this time.

Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE)

The Song Dynasty saw the rise of more casual clothing, simple but still elegant. Men's robes were more reserved, narrow-sleeved and sometimes even shorter in casual settings. Women's outfits included big-sleeved shan (top), beizi (dress) and pleated skirts, focusing on elegance and modesty. Pants also became more commonly worn by women during this time. The songku, named specifically after the Song Dynasty, were multilayered and flowy pants that mimicked the look of skirts. Accessories were also simpler and more refined, including small jade or pearl pieces and embroidered sashes.

Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368 CE)

Influenced by Mongolian culture, men and women wore long robes, with tight or slit sleeves, fastened at the waist and designed for mobility and function. The style of clothing was mainly a combination of Mongolian and Han. Clothes were luxurious for upper class, yet simple in design.

Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644-1911)

The Ming Dynasty revived Han styles, emphasizing elaborate embroidery and ceremonial robes. Men wore round-collar robes with embroidered patches and women wore aoqun (short or long tops – known as ao with horse-face skirts – known as mamianqun) and long cloaks. The Qing Dynasty, ruled by the Manchu people, introduced the qipao or cheongsam, a close-fitting dress that would become an enduring symbol of Chinese elegance. Originally loose and modest, the qipao evolved in the 20th century, incorporating Western elements like zippers and buttons, and transforming into the sleek, body-hugging silhouette recognized worldwide today. The popular Tang suit was also introduced during this time, evolving from the traditional riding jacked known as a magua.

Beyond the different dynasties, Chinese fashion has a vast influence from different ethnic groups, each weaving in their own elements and styles unique to their heritage.

Modern influences

Fast forward to the 21st century, Chinese fashion is experiencing a renaissance. The Neo-Chinese movement is on the rise, especially among Gen Z. Local designers reinterpret traditional garments for everyday wear and various iterations of these outfits are widely available on online shopping platforms, like Taobao, Pinduoduo and more. Celebrities and content creators are showcasing the trends on social media platforms like Douyin, the Chinese sister app of TikTok.

Shanghai and Beijing Fashion Weeks have become global showcases and runways are alive with bold experimentation, blending the old and the new.

Internationally, Chinese fashion is making waves. From Paris to New York, designers incorporate Chinese motifs – dragons, embroidery and silk – into their collections. 

Collaborations between Chinese and global brands are common. The qipao and Hanfu are now icons of global style, worn by celebrities and featured in films, music videos and on red carpets.

Today, Chinese fashion is more than a look – it's a statement of identity, confidence and creativity. Chinese fashion is one of resilience and reinvention.