Design in China: Jade's allure from ancient stone to modern beauty

It's not uncommon to wander through Chinese malls or antique markets and be captivated by glittering displays of jade jewelry. Easily identified by its luminous green hues, jade is more than an eye‑catching gemstone, it is a symbol of purity, power and spiritual connection that continues to resonate deeply in Chinese culture.

Its legacy stretches from Neolithic burial sites to contemporary art galleries and world-famous museums and exhibitions, reflecting the evolution of Chinese society over thousands of years.

In the Chinese character dictionary, Shuowen Jiezi, ancient Chinese lexicographer Xu Shen defined jade as: "A stone that is beautiful, it has five virtues. There is warmth in its luster and brilliance; this is its quality of kindness; its soft interior may be viewed from the outside revealing [the goodness] within; this is its quality of rectitude; its tone is tranquil and high and carries far and wide; this is its quality of wisdom; it may be broken but cannot be twisted; this is its quality of bravery; its sharp edges are not intended for violence; this is its quality of purity."

During the early days of China, jade was used in dress ornaments, in ritual objects, for protection of the dead in tombs and even to make tools. Beyond its beauty, jade also holds a toughness, setting it apart from many other stones.

Over thousands of years, it has evolved to the modern-day pieces we see today.

Jade through the ages

Jade has played a central role in Chinese history, valued not only for its beauty, but its spiritual, moral and symbolic power too. From early times, the stone was believed to possess mystical qualities, including the ability to protect the living and preserve the soul after death.

As early as 7,000 years ago, prehistoric communities shaped jade into ritual forms such as bi disks and cong tubes. Influenced by concepts of yin and yang and early animistic beliefs, these objects were decorated with ancestral and deist symbols and played a role in communication with higher powers. This spiritual worldview contributed to the development of foundational Chinese imagery, including dragon and phoenix symbolism.

From the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC) onwards, jade began being linked with moral values and human qualities, becoming a core part of Chinese culture.

During the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220), jade burial suits, made from thousands of jade plaques, encased royal corpses, were believed to protect the soul in the afterlife. Jade became a symbol of divine and royal power, a medium for communicating with heaven and earth, and a manifestation of the hierarchical system.

Historically, China's jade came primarily from the riverbeds and mountains of Xinjiang and Liaoning. The most prized kind, Hetian jade or nephrite, was traded along the Silk Road, bringing wealth and prestige to regional rulers.

With the rise of Confucianism, jade gradually lost its animistic associations and became significant of ideal human virtues. Jade carvings representing animals such as dragons, phoenixes, tigers and eagles were reinterpreted as expressions of benevolence, righteousness, wisdom, courage and integrity.

Following this and going into the Sui (581-618) and Tang (618-907) dynasties, increased foreign contact introduced new artistic influences that reshaped jade craftsmanship.

In the Song (960-1279) and Yuan (1271-1368) dynasties, a rising academic class valued realistic detail and thoughtful craftsmanship, while also reviving ancient styles to reinforce established political traditions. Jade carving reflected the intellectual mood of the era.

Jade artistry became more sophisticated during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Economic prosperity and improved access to Hetian nephrite, and later Burmese jadeite, fueled a flourishing golden age of carving. By then, luxury jewelry began to gain traction, particularly during the Qing Dynasty. During this period, jade became increasingly associated with the imperial court and the elite classes. Jade jewelry began to be used not only for its spiritual properties but also for its beauty and exclusivity.

Jade's imperial connections are profound. Only the emperor could commission certain jade objects, such as the imperial seal, which signified legitimate rule. 

In the 18th century, the discovery of jadeite in Myanmar (Burma) introduced new colors and textures to the Chinese market, sparking a craze that persists today.

A modern makeover

With the rise of modernity, jade's role in Chinese culture has evolved. While it remains a coveted material for fine jewelry and decorative arts, contemporary designers are reimagining jade in innovative ways – incorporating it into watches, vases, sculptures and even architecture. The value of jade is no longer defined solely by its rarity or imperial pedigree. Today, personal taste, craftsmanship and quality influence its appeal.

China's younger generations are rediscovering jade as a fashionable statement, blending tradition with global trends. At the same time, concerns about authenticity and ethical sourcing have prompted interest in the sustainability of jade, fueling a market for certified, responsibly mined stones.

Jade on display

Not only in jewelry store glass display boxes, China's love for jade is also on show in some of its leading museums.

The National Palace Museum in Taipei, China's Taiwan region, houses the legendary "Jadeite Cabbage" which was once housed at Beijing's Forbidden City. The lifelike sculpture from the Qing Dynasty is known for its intricate detail.

Shanghai Museum's jade gallery dazzles with artifacts spanning thousands of years, from primitive tools to intricate imperial ornaments.

Internationally, museums like the British Museum and the Smithsonian have showcased Chinese jade, highlighting its artistry and historical significance. Special exhibitions draw crowds to glimpse masterpieces like dragon pendants or jade burial suits. These displays not only celebrate jade's aesthetic beauty but also educate visitors about its cultural resonance.

Jade's journey in China is vast and now it has found new expression in contemporary art, fashion and design, reflecting a culture in constant dialogue with its history.

As new generations rediscover jade and reinterpret its place in modern life, the stone continues to evolve. From ancient tombs to modern runways, jade endures not simply as a material, but as a living symbol of Chinese identity.