Seeing China differently: Ultrarunner Ria Xi's China journey

After more than four months running across China, Ria Xi left the country with a record to her name and a different understanding of home.

The Chinese ultrarunner had crossed nine provinces, encountered communities with distinct cultures and traditions, and run through cities, mountains and the Gobi Desert as part of her 20,000-kilometer journey from Vladivostok, Russia, to Cabo da Roca, Portugal.

She had not initially set out to break a record in China. But along the way, she achieved a Fastest Known Time (FKT) for running across the country.

For Ria, however, the journey's significance went beyond the achievement.

"One thing that I didn't really know about the country I grew up in and have spent so much time in is actually just how diverse it is," she said in an interview with CGTN.

Ria was born in Beijing. She spent the last decade living in the United States, first in Silicon Valley working in tech, then traveling full-time in a van, and later running ultramarathons across deserts and pilgrim trails. 

But running across her own country gave her a different perspective on its people, landscapes and regional identities.

"I think a lot of times when people think about China, they think about people that look like me, people that speak Mandarin and stereotypical Chinese food, rice, noodle, whatever," she said.

"But actually, even just going through, I think I went through like nine provinces in this journey, and that's only a portion of what China has to offer."

From people living in the mountains of northwest China's Shaanxi Province to communities in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region where she encountered people living on horseback, Ria found a country shaped by varied cultures, lifestyles and regional traditions.

"It's just really cool to see all these different faces and hear about their stories and how this country has been hosting people from so many different backgrounds," she said. "It's actually pretty extraordinary if you think about it."

A country revealed at running pace

Some of Ria's most memorable encounters happened in places where she least expected them.

The Gobi Desert was the hardest part of her China crossing. Temperatures reached 45 degrees Celsius in September, forcing her to switch much of her running to the evening and night. The heat also made conditions difficult for her support crew, which had to leave the area during the day.

The exhausting routine took a psychological toll.

"I just felt tired, and at any moment in the day, I never felt rested," she said. "That, I think, was the hardest on me psychologically."

Yet even in the desert, passing motorists frequently stopped to check on her.

"Everybody sees me. And everybody's slowing down, either honking or trying to check in on me," she said. "It just felt really heartwarming, especially when it was supposed to be the hardest part of the run.

"The Shanxi people have also shown themselves to be some of the nicest people on this entire run so far," she said. "They're just so hospitable. They hosted us in their cities, ran with me through their cities, showed me their local sights and brought me food."

One runner even arrived with two large jugs of local vinegar, a gesture that made a particular impression on Ria, who enjoys vinegar herself.

Another encounter left a different impression. Near Xi'an, the capital of northwest China's Shaanxi Province, Ria met a local entrepreneur working to strengthen her town's economy by developing a tree-based industry and exporting its honey. The woman also helped older residents learn traditional handicrafts so they could earn income and support their families.

"I was like, that's really cool," Ria said. "It's not just the big cities in China that have been having a lot of growth and a lot of young people with a lot of ambition."

She also met a successful businessman who had traveled on foot to return to his hometown. His ambition, he told her, was to help strengthen the local economy and create new industries.

For Ria, these encounters revealed people working to preserve traditions and build opportunities in their own communities.

A record with personal meaning

Ria discovered the possibility of an FKT while researching her route, when she was already about 80% of the way through China. Another ultrarunner had submitted a route for approval, prompting her competitive instincts.

"I think there's something special about being actually from that country and also being a woman," she said. "I would hope a Chinese person set the record first instead of someone coming from the outside."

The achievement also carried a personal significance connected to the changing position of women in China. Ria recalled her mother telling her that foot-binding had once been associated with beauty standards for Chinese women.

"Now Chinese women are going around the country and setting running records," she said. "It means a lot to me to have that."

For Ria, the record was therefore not simply about speed or the number of kilometers covered. It was also a chance to represent her country and demonstrate what a Chinese woman could accomplish in a demanding endurance sport.

Running as a shared language

Now in Kazakhstan, Ria is continuing her journey across Asia and Europe while bringing local runners together through her Planetary Run Club.

She estimates that about 83 people joined her during the China section, from running clubs in Beijing to groups in smaller northeastern cities such as Huludao and Qinhuangdao. In Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, she has continued organizing group runs with local communities.

Ria says her experience of China has also helped her look beyond stereotypes she encountered while living abroad. She pointed to renewable energy development and different approaches to data centers as examples of areas where China is pursuing its own solutions.

"Running across China helped me understand why that's the case and what it has to offer to other countries," she said. "China is offering a new model for how things can be done."

The journey has left her more curious about the country she grew up in, rather than giving her a sense that she has seen it all.

"I think I understand the country better," she said. "But I've only seen nine provinces, and it would be really cool to see more."

With thousands of kilometers still ahead before she reaches Portugal, Ria is continuing to discover new landscapes and communities. But the months she spent crossing China have already changed her perspective on home.

For a country she thought she knew, she has found there is still much more to explore, one kilometer at a time.

(All photos by Ruzai Hao)

Editor's Note: Denique Daniëls is a multimedia editor for CGTN Digital. This article is part of China in Motion, a recurring column that explores contemporary Chinese life through movement – from running and walking to the design of public space, health culture and community. By observing cities at a human pace, the series captures how ordinary routines shape the experience of life in China.