Christmas lights on in war-torn Syria

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As the seventh round of the talks on Syria is scheduled to take place in Astana, Kazakhstan, not many in Syria's capital are optimistic about a breakthrough.

The weather is less chilly than usual in Damascus this time of the year, more reason for people to flood the streets. But the main attractions are the holiday decorations: Christmas trees and shinning street lights are enough reasons for residents of the Syrian capital to go out for a walk.

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Before the war, decorations would be seen across the city but years of conflict and religious tensions have limited the lights to a handful of districts like in Bab Sharki, the predominantly Christian quarter of Damascus that is part of the old city that dates back to over 6,000 years.

The main street is lined up with bars and restaurants, like Zeriab, a place for university students with a unique tradition – a Christmas tree with customers' wishes written on colorful papers as the tree decorations. And the wishes you would read here are less than basic.

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Rama, a 21-year-old law student writes on a yellow piece of paper that she wants to have a good night sleep. She lives a few hundred meters from Bab Sharki across the street where there's government forces on one side and a coalition of rebel factions on the other, spearheaded by Al-Qaeda Syrian affiliate known as Hayat Tahrir Asham.

"Now there is a new round of talks in Astana, but I doubt anything good will come out of it. I live a few meters from Jobar where the fighting never stops. They said there will be deescalation zones but as far as I am concerned, as long as I hear the shells falling around, the peace talks are meaningless," she said.

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The district Rama lives near Jobar is the frontline of rebels controlling Eastern Ghouta – one of four deescalation zones established in March 2017. But since then, on several occasions, clashes broke out with growing violence. The Syrian army lost over 40 soldiers in one day back in September when militants detonated a tunnel they dug under army positions.

Siwar Ahmad is a farmer who lives in Duma city, the center of Eastern Ghouta. He said he has to face the daily threat of death by relentless government shelling.

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"Days after they announced Ghouta a deescalation zone, the planes came and bombarded Hamoria town near us. They said they will deliver aid but only two convoys came to us. So what kind of deescalation is this?" he said. "When I hear planes, I feel like that there is nowhere to run to, and it scares me to death."

Like many others living under militants control, Ahmad supports the rebels but his priorities to provide for his family is prevented by the war and siege.

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The bleak prospects of the upcoming days can be heard here in SHAM FM, Syria's leading radio station. Yazan Kalash is a field reporter in charge of conveying news of mischief. He is less than hopeful that the upcoming round of talks in Astana would reach any results.

"The process of Astana started almost a year ago, with little to show for it, but nevertheless it is moving ahead though slowly. Aid was delivered more and we have seen a larger number of calm days in Damascus, for example," he said.

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Meanwhile, no one is holding their breath in Damascus. After almost seven years of war, the path to peace isn't just difficult but also unfamiliar to many.

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