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China is already the second-largest market for its premium Cinco Jotas acorn-fed ham, after Spain. But a new agreement signed between China and Spain during Chinese President Xi Jinping's visit in November will allow exports of premium bone in ham, once details are finalized. It could add significant sales, beyond the current exports of ham that is sliced or sent as the whole but boneless hams. Al Goodman visited the meadows and aging cellars that contribute to Cinco Jotas's prestige as a premium ham.
Pure-bred 100 percent Iberian pigs. Grazing in southern Spain near Jabugo, a town famous for its premium hams. The veteran caretaker, calling out, to keep them close by, under watch. These pigs, destined for the Osborne Group's ham brand called Cinco Jotas. It's already exported – sliced -- to about 45 countries, including China. But a new agreement, signed recently during Chinese President Xi Jinping's visit to Madrid, will allow Spain to export to China the entire leg of ham, including the bone, for the first time. And that should increase business, says Osborne's chairman, a member of the family that has owned this drinks and food company for nearly 250 years.
IGNACIO OSBORNE CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, OSBORNE "In the Chinese consumer perspective, to see the bone is very important because it's a symptom of freshness. They can see that it is pure, that it is a real animal and it's very important for the consumer."
He says the paper-thin slices also taste a bit fresher right after being carved from the full leg of ham. In the cellars, the rear-leg hams typically age for three years before market. Larger ones - up to five years. Protective clothing, required, for hygiene. Workers, constantly monitoring, controlling the fat in the ham, the temperature and humidity. Striving for a certain taste. Experts say that starts when the pigs are foraging. Exercise adds muscle tone to their legs, and the acorns they eat add a nutty flavor to the ham.
MARIA CASTRO COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR, CINCO JOTAS "Because it's very intense and it's going to stay in your mouth for a very long period. And it's always going to be very sweet."
AL GOODMAN JABUGO, SPAIN "Cinco Jotas won't say how many thousands of hams they sell worldwide. But they tightly control production, because once the ham is ready for consumption, if it's still just hanging around, unsold, it becomes hard after a year, and not very good to eat."
IGNACIO OSBORNE CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, OSBORNE "We want to be exactly one ham less than the demand is going to be and that is always difficult. And not because now we have the China situation."
And this business is changing. Some 30 percent of these hams are exported now. But with the China agreement, they expect to send even more of this Spanish ham to distant lands. Al Goodman, CGTN, Jabugo, Spain.