Michelin guide debuts in Guangzhou

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Steamed crab custard – the dish by Chef Gordon Guo at Lai Heen received a star in the latest Guangzhou edition of the Michelin Guide. The 20-year veteran chef says this dish combines traditional crab with innovative ingredients like rose tea and rice wine, to represent his take on Cantonese cuisine.

Steamed crab custard by Chef Gordon Guo at Lai Heen /CGTN Photo

"I believe Cantonese cooking is now at the juncture of innovation. The concept of fusion is very important, always searching for new ingredients and combinations, while inheriting the essence of Cantonese cooking," says Gordon Guo, the executive chef of Lai Heen.

The Michelin Guide has always had a slant towards Cantonese restaurants, especially fine dining establishments like Lai Heen, which can be found in a hotel with good ambiance and quality service. This time, eight restaurants were awarded a Michelin star by the famous restaurant guide.

But in the city known as the epicenter of Cantonese cuisine, it's surprising to learn that there are no two- or three-star winners here.

Anna Wu, a local in Guangzhou, says she was a bit surprised by the list because "Guangzhou has so many great places for food, like street food, braised goose, and so on. Some restaurants deserve better ratings."

Braised goose, a popular food item among locals /CGTN Photo

People say “when it comes to food, Guangzhou has no equal.” So why is Michelin not giving out two or three stars awards to local establishments? One explanation could be that many street-side restaurants don't meet the Michelin standard, despite their popularity with the locals. But a food critic says it also has to do with the culinary scene in Guangzhou, a lack of variety and international vision.

Gao Shengyi, a local food critic, told CGTN that she thinks Cantonese restaurants in Guangzhou are pretty conservative in cooking, with similar menus and cooking methods. “You can hardly tell them apart. And for fine dining, when it comes to elements like a good wine list, Guangzhou’s establishments are short on those things too."

However, another food critic who chose to remain anonymous expressed a different opinion: "I certainly think Michelin is a good standard, but a very euro-centric one, as they mostly focus on western cuisine. With Chinese cuisine in general, the criteria should be different because the perception of taste is different between western and Asian cuisines."

Chef Gordon Guo. /CGTN Photo

Regardless of this debate, Chef Guo says his restaurant will continue to work on the details and elevate culinary standards.