Rolling in the deep: One unifying force that enthralls Papua New Guinea
Updated 12:07, 17-Nov-2018
Hu Zhicheng
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A wet, mud-caked man heaves himself through the soggy morass, makes the run upfield as he gathers a stray pass, surges past three opponents in extreme slow motion before being tackled by a pack of similarly mud-drenched competitors, who totter on their hands and knees like giant babies.
At one point, a flurry of speed and spine-tingling scuffle elicit a roar from those passers-by who perch on the soft earth, observing the happenings intensely with the same passion and vigor of a professional game.
We are just stumbling across a YouTube video titled "The Passion of rugby league in Papua New Guinea," and the waterlogged mess is absolutely not what we expect. But it vividly captures the religious fervor with which PNG embraces their national pastime. 
It's hard to imagine a dirtier version of the rugby league, and such is the obsession about the sport in this otherworldly Oceanian country that it is still playable even when people are waist-deep in the muck. Moving like a moose in a swamp has never been so much fun. 
Young Papua New Guineans play Rugby League at a local park, October 30, 2017, in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea. /VCG Photo

Young Papua New Guineans play Rugby League at a local park, October 30, 2017, in Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea. /VCG Photo

PNG's love affair with rugby league began during the 1940s and has blossomed over the years into an obsessive relationship. Although it was introduced by Australian soldiers who stationed there after the World World II, it has grown to be a cultural force uniting all Papua New Guineans. 
When their rugby league national team, known affectionately as "the Kumuls," which means "bird of paradise" in the local dialect, play at an international tournament, hearts from different parts of the country, regardless of age, gender, ethnicity or socio-economic status, all beat as one as they offer their unconditional support.
Concerning domestic action, a semi-professional rugby league competition called PNGNRL has enjoyed some modest success after decades of development, while Australia's top-level National Rugby League (NRL) has a presence in PNG that rivals, including the English Premier League and the National Football League, could only dream about.
The Fijian defense tackles PNG's Justin Olam during the Pacific Test Invitational match at Campbelltown Sports Stadium, June 23, 2018. /VCG Photo

The Fijian defense tackles PNG's Justin Olam during the Pacific Test Invitational match at Campbelltown Sports Stadium, June 23, 2018. /VCG Photo

With the NRL followed across the region's hundreds of disparate tribes, media coverage is vast. As a result, rugby league players are adored like superheroes, ensuring a rapturous reception when fans see them in person. 
Notable local names in the NRL, such as Melbourne Storm winger Justin Olam, North Queensland Cowboys hooker Kurt Baptiste and Cronulla-Sutherland Sharks' James Segeyaro have all achieved cult status in their own right.
In 2000, the PNG government even made rugby league a mandatory part of their educational curriculum, a huge testament to how massively popular the sport has developed. 
No matter how old you are, no matter how much you weigh, everyone is welcome to play. /VCG Photo

No matter how old you are, no matter how much you weigh, everyone is welcome to play. /VCG Photo

Why did PNG become such fertile ground for rugby league? There's no simple answer, but the sport does offer an opportunity to escape from the real world. Rather than dealing with the struggles of everyday life, people in PNG are able to engage in rugby league in a way that shuts out all distractions. 
In a country that is still beset with grinding poverty, the most delightful traits of rugby league reside in its simplicity. It doesn't entail considerable money or any expensive gear – just a few folks with spare time. 
In stark contrast to neighboring Australia and New Zealand where rugby league is mostly played on top-notch pitches, players in PNG would find themselves on all types of surfaces. Occasionally, they don't even need a real ball to play with. Scraps of used clothes or old newspapers will fit the bill.
Evidently, the potential of the sport has not been fully realized in PNG due to the lack of adequate infrastructure and training facilities, but for all these dreadful playing conditions, their cravings for rugby league have not been diluted in the slightest. 
A source of love, joy and strength. /VCG Photo

A source of love, joy and strength. /VCG Photo

Just watch those aficionados roll around in the mud to play the game. Even the simplest movements have them gasping for air. But they couldn't care less.
Get the misery out of the way; the Papua New Guineans want to play.