North China's Linfen: A small city with a big history

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Linfen isn't well known despite its important place in China's past. But visitors today will discover a legacy worth exploring.

A legendary Chinese ruler made Linfen his capital and a cradle of Chinese civilization over 4,000 years ago. But today, it's a small city and largely undiscovered travel destination in north China's Shanxi Province that's worth exploring for its historical legacy.

The city recently hosted the first Great Rivers Civilization Forum on Tourism to promote travel related to the Yellow River. The slogan was: "All travels are about leaving home; but, in Linfen, you arrive home."

"The Yellow River has sired Chinese civilization and shaped numerous places in Shanxi with natural beauty and profound culture, especially in Linfen," mayor Liu Yuqiang says.

Legendary emperor Yao (c. 24th-23th centuries BC), who declared the settlement his capital, remains a symbol of the city today, much like the city was a symbol of his reign millennia ago.

The Jinguo Museum features ancient horse and chariot pits. /China Daily Photo

Travelers can visit the Yao Temple built 1,700 years ago to commemorate him and two other legendary emperors, Shun and Yu.

A gate was also built in the city to commemorate Yao's effort to found Chinese civilization.

Another important period for Linfen was the 700 years during which it was part of the Jin state, during the Zhou Dynasty (c.11th century-256 BC) – a story that unfolds in the Jinguo Museum.

The museum is built on the tombs of the Jin rulers, their wives and funerary objects.

Legend has it that Zhou emperor Ji Song gave a paulownia leaf to his younger brother, Ji Yu, as a promise to invest him with a fiefdom when playing as children.

Later, a historiographer asked Song to fulfill his promise.

He said he was just joking. But he was later told an emperor's words must be taken seriously.

Finally, Ji Song gave Tang to Ji Yu as his fiefdom. Ji Yu's son, Ji Xiefu, changed the name from Tang to Jin.

Shanxi is still abbreviated as Jin in a linguistic carryover of its past identity.

Visitors from around the world come to Linfen, Shanxi Province, to see the magnificent view of the Yellow River's Hukou Waterfalls. /China Daily Photo

Chong'er is one of the Jin state's best-known marquises.

His father's concubine, Liji, conspired to help her son ascend to the throne and framed the crown prince, Shensheng, leading to his death. She also exiled Chong'er and his younger brother, Yiwu.

Chong'er lived in his mother's native land, the Di state, for 12 years, during which he started to rejuvenate Jin with his followers. They visited many states to seek help.

Some treated them as distinguished guests. Others were cold and even insulted them. But they endured all of the hardships.

After 19 years of exile, Chong'er returned and seized the throne from his nephew, ushering in the most glorious age of Jin. He was later regarded as one of the Spring and Autumn Period's (770-476 BC) five hegemonies.

Another important chapter of Linfen's history is memorialized in the Hongtong Dahuaishu Ancestor Memorial Garden-a legacy of deception and forced migration, according to historical records.

In the early Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), emperor Zhu Yuanzhang decided to relocate people from populous Shanxi to the central plains, where massive wars at the end of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) had impaired productivity.

Many people didn't want to move despite generous subsidies. The government put up a notice asking those who were unwilling to leave to register their names under the locust tree beside a temple. Those who were willing to go didn't have to.

But those who went to register were immediately forced to migrate. Some were even tied to the tree for fear they might flee.

Members of families of four or more people had to migrate. Two family members would have to relocate if the family had six people. And three would have to relocate if it had eight. Mostly men left. Families were split apart-often, for the rest of their lives.

The locust tree witnessed 18 migrations in 50 years, making it a symbol of the events. The migrants ended up in about 20 provinces in central, northern and eastern China.

Many people still return to the tree to trace their roots today. Visitors can watch a performance that depicts the migration. Or, they can visit the Yellow River's Hukou Waterfalls, the Taosi Ruins or the Dingcun Paleolithic Sites.

Indeed, it seems the small city has a vast history, largely unknown to travelers for now.

Those who make the trip will find much to discover.

(Cover: Villagers still live in the ancient cave houses with a history of more than 1,000 years in Xiangning County, Linfen. /China Daily Photo)

Source(s): China Daily