Ask a Sichuan local about their favorite dining experience, this is probably what you'll get – nothing fancy, just cheap, hole-in-the-wall style diners offering nothing but homey local cooking at its best.
TAO YUAN CHENGDU "It's all about the boisterous atmosphere, and of course the spicy chili heat and mouth-numbing peppercorns. But increasingly, another culinary trend is unfolding."
YONG HE PARTNER, ENJOY LIFE "Young people today don't want to eat the same old dishes, like Kung Pao Chicken or Ma Po Toufu. They want new creations."
Yong He and his partners are blending Sichuan with the west. In this Italian industrial-styled restaurant, hallmarks of Sichuanese cuisine are found on the dining tables and in the kitchen. Elements of the celebrated cooking are hidden in every foreign-looking dish.
YONG HE PARTNER, ENJOY LIFE "This is a piece of beef short rib. It may look western. But the essence is the numbing taste of the peppercorn in traditional Sichuan cuisine. You see the sauce on top, you can smell the peppercorn. That's why it's still a Sichuan dish, albeit a modern one."
Wang Shiwu is a long-time food writer and advocate of modern adaptations.
WANG SHIWU JOURNALIST, SICHUAN GASTRONOMY "Sichuan cuisine is a melting pot. It blends the advantages of various styles."
That's the result of several mass migrations throughout history. The influx of people into Sichuan brought vitality and diversity to the cuisine. And China's Opening Up brought about even greater changes.
WANG SHIWU JOURNALIST, SICHUAN GASTRONOMY "It liberated the minds of people from all walks of life. The same is true of the food industry. People wanted to break the routine. They realized there were new ways of doing things and they were given a bigger stage to showcase their creativity."
The result was an explosion of bolder ideas from the ingredients to the presentation. Foie gras on Chinese bun bread; a dazzling fire display of roasted shrimp. Customers embraced the new dining experience.
"It tastes like Sichuan cuisine, but it's more creative. It's a good thing. Our cuisine has never stopped progressing."
But amid the rapid progress, something remains unchanged.
YONG HE PARTNER, ENJOY LIFE "The essence of Sichuan cuisine is its many varieties of tastes. Each dish has a different taste. So these dishes still reflect the spirit of Sichuan cuisine."
A spirit that promises ongoing evolution. Tao Yuan, CGTN, Chengdu.