Michelin Guide Debuts in Guangzhou: Elevating Guangzhou on the global gastronomy map

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A huge honor for China's dining scene. Eight restaurants in the city of Guangzhou were recently awarded a coveted Michelin star. The southern city is considered the epicenter of Cantonese cuisine. Our reporter, Cui Hui'ao, visited one spot to find out what this means for the city's culinary culture.

Steamed crab custard - a dish by Chef Guo Yuanfeng at Lai Heen, which received one star in the latest Guangzhou edition of the Michelin Guide. The 20-year veteran chef says this dish combines the traditional crab with innovative ingredients like rose tea and rice wine, to represents his take on Cantonese cuisine.

GORDON GUO, CHEF LAI HEEN AT THE RITZ-CARLTON "I believe Cantonese cooking is now at the juncture of innovation. The concept of fusion is very important, always searching for new ingredients and combinations while inheriting the essence of Cantonese cooking."

The Michelin Guide has always had a slant towards Cantonese restaurants, especially fine dining establishments like Lai Heen, found in a hotel with good ambiance and quality service.

But in a city known as the epicenter of Cantonese cuisine, it came as a surprise to many that there are no two- or three-star winners here.

ANNA WU GUANGZHOU RESIDENT "I was surprised by the list because Guangzhou has so many great places for food, like street food, braised goose, etc. Some restaurants deserve better ratings."

One explanation could be many street-side restaurants don't meet the Michelin standard, despite their popularity among locals. But one food critic says it also has to do with the culinary scene in Guangzhou, a lack of variety and international vision.

GAO SHENGYI FOOD CRITIC "Cantonese restaurants in Guangzhou are pretty conservative in cooking, with similar menus and cooking methods. You can hardly tell them apart. And for fine dining, when it comes to elements like a good wine list, Guangzhou's establishments are short on those things too."

On that note, Chef Guo says his restaurant will continue to work on details, and elevate culinary standards.

CUI HUI'AO GUANGZHOU "People say 'when it comes to food, Guangzhou has no equal'. But both chef Guo and food critic Gao say Michelin's arrival makes insiders aware that Cantonese cuisine has some work to do, such as becoming more open to new ideas and continuing to innovate. Cui Hui'ao, CGTN, Guangzhou."