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Ancient grottoes, temples highlight Datong's Buddhist heritage
Wendyl Martin

A bowl of steaming noodles was placed in front of me at a packed eatery not far from some of China's most famous grottoes. I was nearing the end of a whirlwind overnight trip to Datong, Shanxi, having joined the millions of travelers who ventured out over the recent Labor Day holiday.

The noodles, broth and minced meat went down very fast. They were highly recommended along with peony “shao mai,” or flower-shaped steamed buns, so I ordered both. Noodles in Shanxi are shredded or peeled off batches of dough with a knife straight into bowls and plates, and are known as “dao xiao mian”, while the buns I had were stuffed with meat, vegetables, seafood and rice. 

Popular Shanxi delicacies include “dao xiao mian,” or knife-cut noodles. /Wendyl Martin
Popular Shanxi delicacies include “dao xiao mian,” or knife-cut noodles. /Wendyl Martin

Popular Shanxi delicacies include “dao xiao mian,” or knife-cut noodles. /Wendyl Martin

As I chewed on these local delicacies, I thought about what I had just seen. Located in the west of Datong, the Yungang Grottoes are a reminder of China's centuries-old Buddhist heritage. Having picked one of the busiest days of the year to visit, I filed into caves of this UNESCO World Heritage site with crowds of visitors to catch a glimpse of the ancient murals.

Besides towering statues of Buddha, relief carvings cover the cave walls. Of all the caves, No.6 stands out as the most recommended and well known. If you visit on a quiet day, it's best to walk clockwise around the cave to see the life of Shakyamuni Buddha detailed in intricate carvings from his birth to his attainment of Nirvana.

Just next door in Cave No.5 is the largest statue of the grottoes, a 17-meter-high sitting Buddha. The adjoining caves No.5 and 6 were excavated between 465 and 494 AD. As I wandered the area, I saw visitors burning incense and kneeling amid the awe-inspiring atmosphere of the caves and niches.

Carvings in Cave No.6 of the Yungang Grottoes detail the life of Shakyamuni Buddha. /Wendyl Martin
Carvings in Cave No.6 of the Yungang Grottoes detail the life of Shakyamuni Buddha. /Wendyl Martin

Carvings in Cave No.6 of the Yungang Grottoes detail the life of Shakyamuni Buddha. /Wendyl Martin

The historical presence of Buddhism in Shanxi can be seen in its temples and monasteries. As an amazing architectural wonder, the Hanging Temple is built on the cliffs of Mount Hengshan and is considered the only existing temple dedicated to three religions: Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. Built during the late North Wei Dynasty in 491 AD, the temple has stood on its cliff for over 1,500 years, supported by cantilever beams inserted into the rock. The closest I could get to its balconies and bridges was a view from below. An hours-long queue snaked before me. I decided I’d visit the halls of this marvel another time.

Shanxi’s Hanging Temple draws thousands of visitors to explore its lofty balconies and bridges. /Wendyl Martin
Shanxi’s Hanging Temple draws thousands of visitors to explore its lofty balconies and bridges. /Wendyl Martin

Shanxi’s Hanging Temple draws thousands of visitors to explore its lofty balconies and bridges. /Wendyl Martin

The Huayan Monastery has proved much easier to explore with its wide garden paths. It was built during the Liao Dynasty (907 - 1125) and is the largest and best-preserved monastery in existence from that period. The highlight of this spot was exploring its multi-storey pagoda. Climb to the top for a panoramic view of Datong; descend into the basement to experience a ceiling-to-floor brass room. Here too, people stopped to pray at statues of Buddha.

The pagoda at Huayan Monastery. /Wendyl Martin
The pagoda at Huayan Monastery. /Wendyl Martin

The pagoda at Huayan Monastery. /Wendyl Martin

My favorite part of the Datong tour was exploring its ancient city block and the wall that surrounds it. Forming a square, it offers views of Datong’s old alleys, temples, parks and restaurants and, at night, a bird's-eye view of gorgeous lighting and decorative lanterns. Upon ascending the wall, I hired a cycling cart with a friend for a fun ride along the top. Residents and tourists charmed me with their warmth and friendly greetings, while Datong dazzled with its city lights. This city will see me again. 

A night view of Datong from its ancient city wall. /Wendyl Martin
A night view of Datong from its ancient city wall. /Wendyl Martin

A night view of Datong from its ancient city wall. /Wendyl Martin

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